Thursday, January 04, 2007

In the heart of the Tehuantapec

Jan. 5, 2007 1AM
We are more than half way across the Gulf. Thus far, it has been super-mellow, as promised by weather guru. We left Huatulco at dawn and started down the North side of the Gulf. For a while, we had a current pushing us along 2K faster than we would have gone otherwise. Then, we came to some whirlpools where two currents met. As soon as we passed through that, our favorable current was gone and we were pushing an unfavorable current of 1-1.5K. That means that with the motor and sails pushing us through the water at 7K, we are actually doing 6K. That is the case right now. We are now at the bottom of the Gulf, having passed Salina Cruz this afternoon and are starting a 130 mile leg up the Southern side to Puerto Madera. Even if the strong winds came up now, they would be behind us so we have passed the worst of it.
How bad has it been? Well, let's see. The seas have been flat and although the current is foul, we have almost always had a little wind, so by using the sails with the motor, we managed to hold almost normal cruising speed. There is a full moon and the smell of smoke off the land.
For dinner tonight, we had some of the tuna we caught yesterday - prime ahi! Andi soaked it in soy sauce, rolled it in fresh garlic and then toasted sesame seeds. Then she seared it quickly so that the center was still red and served it with wasabi mayonnaise. Mashed potatoes, a fresh salad, and a tolerable white wine filled out the menu. Nobody suffering here! Not bad for a stretch of ocean that I have been dreading for the last month.
After dinner, I had a hot shower and went to bed. Now I'm on watch and typing this. We are so far ahead of schedule that we may linger in Puerto Madera and maybe try to see some of Chiapas before leaving for Guatemala. Stay tuned and don't forget to write.


Here we see some of the low sandy stretches where Mexico is very narrow and the wind in the Gulf of Mexico funnels through the gap. But not today, gracias a Dios.
You know who this is.

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